Thursday, September 2, 2010

TALES OF THE LOST BANDANA


Romanian from the mid 20th century natural dies......

American late 1800's aka "Turkey red" no branding on this one not "color fast" .of course dry clean mandatory....

Marseille connection early 20th century on thin cotton...

Spanish probably of same origin....

American 1920's large size ....

Mexican 40's thicker than a American ....
American deco style....
Same period .....
Mid 30's deco styled of American origin..

FOUND in New Mexico 20 years ago...

50'S advertising example....

40'S work.....

Part of the ever growing collection...


As a follow up to my last post ,i've decided to talk a little bit , if i may,of what's the most recognised and widely used accessory in the world :the iconic BANDANA and it's Paisley based motif...
The name bandana comes from the Hindi"bandhana" wich means "to tie" .The name paisley, derives from the town of Paisley, in central Scotland where the motif was widely produce in the late 1800's.
The paisley pattern, is a motif resembling a twisted teardrop. The kidney-shaped paisley is of Persian and Indian origins.In the beginning the motif was weaved uniquely ,but due to its popularity the use of hand stamp for printing traditional "paisley" designs became common practice...
Paisley was first popular in the European Baltic states between 1700 and 1800 and was thought to be used as a protective charm against evil demons by the gypsies of northern Indian origins. However, in modern culture, the youth of these countries have used it as a symbol of rebellion.
the British conspiracy....
In the 19th Century European production of paisley started, particularly in the Scottish town from which the pattern takes its modern name[as mentioned above]. Soldiers returning from the colonies brought home cashmere wool shawls from India, and the" East India Company " later imported more. The design was copied from the costly silk and wool Kashmir shawls and adapted first for use on handlooms, and, after 1820 on Jacquard looms.
The "East India Company" at some point could not satisfy the increasing demand for the popular motif so,from roughly 1800 to 1850, the weavers of the town of Paisley in Renfrewshire, Scotland, became the foremost producers of the motif. The key places of manufacture for weaved or printed paisley were Britain but also the Marseille and Alsace regions of France.......
the French connection:
Local manufacturers in Marseilles began to mass-produce the patterns via early textile printing processes around 1640. England, circa 1670, and Holland, in 1678, soon followed.As a result Europe's weavers found themselves with more competition than they could bear, and the production and import of printed paisley was forbidden in France by royal decree from 1686 to 1759. However, enforcement near the end of that period was lax, and France had its own printed textile manufacturing industry in place as early at 1746.
Paisley on cotton and wool in the 19th Century was major.and by the beginning of the 20th century the paisley pattern was being printed, rather than woven, onto other textiles, including cotton squares which were the precursors of the modern bandanna. Being able to purchase printed paisley rather than woven paisley brought the price of the costly pattern down and added to its popularity.

12 comments:

  1. Amazing collection ! Ça fait l'effet d'une baffe à chaque photo ! And interresting text, good idea to talk a little much ;)

    I didn't know that there is Paisley in south of France during XVIIIth century. Does the modern "Camargue shirt" as the "Olivades" brand derives from this tradition ?
    I'm really curious to see clothes or fabric from this period, I never saw it in museum ...

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  2. JUST DIG MAMA ...JUST DIG!!! .everything comes from the old world don't you know !?? de Nimes and now the bandana ....everything is connected .India,the gypsies ,south of France and so on ... look at old pictures .for example ,did you know that the traditional Corsican fisherman's jacket is in fact a "bleu de chine" traditional chinese indigo 3 pockets jacket ....Tino Rossi in the 30's used to wear such a jacket with a French bandana around is neck "pescadou" style ...eh oui ma bonne dame !!!on va souvent chercher ailleurs ce que l'on a sous le nez ..........

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  3. by the way.... thx Miss O .for being a constant follower of my modest blog .

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  4. "Du pôle sud au pôle nord
    Dans chaque petit port
    Il est, sans nulle erreur
    Pour bien pêcher, de bons pêcheurs
    On en trouve partout
    Jusque chez les Zoulous
    Les plus forts malgré tout
    Ce sont ceux de chez nous "

    Les pescadous, hou ! Hou !
    De la marshiale
    Grands méchants loups, ouh ! Ouh !
    Que rien n'égale
    Oui, mais ils sont surtout
    De nos cigales
    Le doux et clair bagout
    Les pescadous
    Quand dans les coeurs, ils font escale
    Ah ! Les corsaires, ils prennent tout
    Les pescadous, hou ! Hou !
    De ma marshiale
    Sont les rois, voyez-vous
    Des frottadous !!!!!

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  5. That's the reason why, day after day, vintage clothing are so exciting and it is so passionating to connect origins and roots of things… Reason why to start with the 50's style one day could lead to collect 19th century period few years later…and sometime start with 50's STYLE could also lead to never change… People are somtime curious and sometime not. Look at Tino Rossi, he sang "PETIT PAPA NOEL" all his long life during …

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  6. WOW, pif paf la claque, magnifiques photos, les styles sont tous trés différents, vraiment intéressant...Merci m'sieur!

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  7. i'll post some more ."cowboy style" only soon

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  8. by the way great Alibert quote Mr VJ....one of my grandfather's fav singer."j'aime la mer comme une femme" ca s'invente pas !!

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  9. De rien cher Patrick. C'est un plaisir de s'arrêter ici et d'apprendre pleins de choses, ça change de la brosse à reluire qui est de circonstance sur tous les blogs féminins rétros. j'en peux plus !!!!! ah ah ah ah ah suis trop contente qu'il y ai des Riveted et des French Cancan !!!

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  10. quelle est mignionne cette Big mama… et même si nous on peut plus se faire reluire la brosse… because qu'il nous reste plus assez de cheveux…
    kiss my friends… et oui Patrick" jaime la mer comme un femme… ça c'est du Baudelaire… !!!! la grande classe

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  11. What great photo's and a great blog that I just discovered! I'd love to find some information on dating bandana's and the companies that made them. I've got probably a hundred old ones with elephant, and camel logo's, Fast Color, Tuside, washfast, ironweave, etc. Any advise?

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  12. Hello l'HOM, j'ai chiné une très belle veste de chasse marron (coutil/velours) 30/40, je vais en toucher deux mots sur "FRENCH CANCAN"…état quasi deadstock, fantastique gibecière en canvas type jute boutonné… On a croisé ce modèle, mais cette pièce est vraiment intéressante…Pour info il se peut qu'elle soit à vendre au dealer… je ne sais pas encore…à suivre

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